Some fabrics are designed to drape softly. Gabardine fabric is designed to hold structure. Known for its smooth finish, durability, and crisp tailored look, gabardine is commonly used for trousers, blazers, uniforms, and coats that need to keep their shape throughout the day. In this guide, we will explore what gabardine fabric is, how it compares to twill, and the types of garments it works best for so you can decide if it is the right fabric for your next sewing project.
What Is Gabardine Fabric?
Gabardine is a tightly woven, hard finish fabric known for its smooth face, fine diagonal rib, and weather resistant feel. The diagonal lines on the surface are very fine and steep, much tighter than a standard twill, which is what gives gabardine its clean, almost matte look.
It is a weave name, not a fiber. Gabardine was originally developed by Thomas Burberry in the late 1800s as a breathable alternative to oiled raincoats, woven from worsted wool in a specific twill structure. Today you will find gabardine in cotton, wool, polyester, viscose, and blends, each with its own weight and use.
Cotton gabardine fabric tends to be lighter and softer, well suited to trousers, skirts, and shirting. Wool gabardine leans into suiting and tailored outerwear.
History of Gabardine Fabric
Gabardine has one of the more interesting backstories in modern fabric. Burberry patented the original wool gabardine in 1888 as a tightly woven, water repellent cloth for outdoor use. It went on to clothe polar explorers, mountaineers, and pilots, and became the foundation for the now iconic trench coat. That heritage still shapes how the fabric is used today, especially in outerwear and tailored separates.
4 Key Gabardine Fabric Characteristics
Durable - Gabardine fabric is tightly woven to resist wear, making it ideal for garments designed for frequent use and long-lasting structure.
Smooth Surface - Despite its twill weave, gabardine has a clean and refined finish that gives tailored garments a polished appearance.
Structured Drape - Gabardine holds shape well while still offering enough movement for comfortable trousers, jackets, skirts, and uniforms.
Versatile - Available in wool, cotton, polyester, and blends, gabardine fabric can be used for everything from lightweight tailoring to heavier outerwear.
How Is Gabardine Made?
Gabardine production is a careful balance of yarn choice, weave density, and finishing.
Yarn Selection - Gabardine fabric begins with fine, tightly twisted yarns made from wool, cotton, polyester, or blended fibers chosen for durability and structure.
Twill Weave Construction - The yarns are woven in a steep twill pattern with a high warp count, creating gabardine’s dense surface and subtle diagonal texture.
Finishing Process - After weaving, the fabric is washed, pressed, and heat finished to create its smooth appearance and crisp tailored feel.
Final Inspection - The finished gabardine fabric is checked for quality, then graded by weight, texture, and fiber composition before being rolled for production.
Pros and Cons of Gabardine Fabric
Pros of Gabardine Fabric
Gabardine has a clean, tailored look that few other fabrics match at the same price point. It holds creases beautifully, drapes well in motion, and resists wind and light rain. The dense weave makes it strong and long lasting, ideal for garments that need to look sharp through frequent wear. Is gabardine fabric expensive? Cotton and polyester versions sit at very accessible price points, while wool gabardine costs more but earns its place in suiting.
Cons of Gabardine Fabric
Because of its tight weave, gabardine can be unforgiving on the sewing table. Pressing too hot can leave shine marks, and visible pin or seam ripper holes do not always recover. It also breathes less than looser woven cottons, so heavier wool gabardine can feel warm in peak summer.
Gabardine Fabric vs Twill Fabric
Gabardine is technically a type of twill, but the two are not interchangeable. The table below sums up the differences.
| Feature | Gabardine | Standard Twill |
| Weave angle | Steep, around 63 degrees | Moderate, around 45 degrees |
| Surface | Smooth, fine diagonal | Visible diagonal rib |
| Weight | Light to mid weight | Light to heavy |
| Best uses | Suits, trousers, trench coats | Chinos, workwear, casual jackets |
| Look | Refined, slight sheen | Casual, matte |
6 Clothing and Garment Uses of Gabardine Fabric
Gabardine fabric uses span suiting, outerwear, and tailored separates. Here are six garment categories where it really shines.
Tailored trousers. Gabardine takes a crease beautifully and holds it through a long workday, which is why it remains a classic for dress pants.
Suiting and blazers. Wool gabardine suiting fabrics give blazers and skirts a clean, structured look without the bulk of heavier suit cloth.
Trench coats and outerwear. The original use case, and still one of the best. Patterns like the Cashmerette Chilton trench coat are designed with this kind of fabric in mind.
Pencil skirts and A line skirts. The structure helps the skirt hold its silhouette while still moving softly through the day.
Gabardine fabric shirts. Lighter cotton gabardine works well for crisp button ups, shirt dresses, and overshirts that need a refined finish.
Uniforms and workwear. Polyester and poly blend gabardine is widely used for uniforms because it resists wrinkles, sheds light stains, and holds color through repeated washing.
How to Care for Gabardine Fabric
Gabardine rewards a careful washing routine, especially in wool and blends.
1. Check the fiber content first. Cotton and polyester gabardine can usually be machine washed, while wool gabardine is best dry cleaned or hand washed.
2. Use cool water and a gentle cycle to protect the smooth finish.
3. Choose a mild detergent and skip bleach, which can dull the surface.
4. Hang dry whenever possible. Tumble drying can shrink wool and crease synthetic versions.
5. Iron on the reverse side with a press cloth at a medium setting to avoid shine marks.
6. Store folded or hung in a cool, dry space, ideally on padded hangers for tailored pieces.
A quick steam between wears keeps gabardine garments looking fresh without overwashing.
Where to buy Gabardine Fabric?
At Yardblox we stock gabardine fabric by the yard with flexible minimums for sewists, designers, and small brands. Our gabardine selection focuses on suiting and tailored separates, so each bolt is chosen for hand feel, drape, and color depth.
Browse the Yardblox gabardine collection for cotton, wool, and blended options suited to suiting projects. Whether you are sampling a new tailored line or restocking a customer favorite, you can order what you need without committing to large quantities.
Gabardine is one of those quiet workhorse fabrics that earns its place in any tailored wardrobe. It looks polished, sews up cleanly with a little care, and holds up beautifully season after season.
