Denim has stood the test of time from everyday jeans to jackets, bags, and even home décor. Loved by sewists, designers, and fashion brands alike, it remains one of the most versatile cotton fabrics in the world.
In this guide, we’ll dive into what denim fabric is, how it’s made, its rich history, the main types of denim, and how to choose the perfect denim fabric by the yard or metre for your next creation.
History of Denim Fabric
Denim’s story begins in Nîmes, France, in the 17th century, where “serge de Nîmes” was produced the origin of the word denim. The fabric became popular for workwear because of its strength and durability.
In the 19th century, denim was brought to the U.S., where Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented riveted denim trousers in 1873, creating the first blue jeans for miners and workers. By the mid-20th century, denim had moved from utility to fashion, becoming a symbol of youth culture, rebellion, and everyday style.
Today, denim ranges from heavyweight workwear cloth to lightweight cotton denim fabrics for dresses and shirts. It remains one of the most widely used fabrics across the globe.
What Is Denim Fabric?
Denim is a woven fabric made using a twill weave, where the warp threads (usually blue) pass over two or more white weft threads. This distinctive weave creates denim’s signature diagonal ribbing, strength, and durability making it one of the most hard-wearing cotton fabrics ever created.
Traditionally, denim was made from 100% cotton, but today it comes in many forms. You’ll find everything from printed denim fabric by the yard to stretch denim for added comfort and flexibility, and even denim blends with wool fabric for warmth in colder seasons.
While the word “denim” covers a broad family of fabrics, not all denim is created equal. In this guide, we’ll look more closely at three premiun denim fabric types that define both classic craftsmanship and modern innovation:
- Selvedge Denim – heritage shuttle-loom denim prized for texture and character.
- Raw Denim – unwashed, untreated denim that fades beautifully with wear.
- Bull Denim – sturdy, piece-dyed denim known for its rich, vibrant colors.
Each of these offers a different take on what makes denim special, whether you’re after timeless authenticity, unique fades, or bold color and structure.
Selvedge Denim Vs Raw Denim Vs Bull Denim
Among the many variations of denim fabric, Selvedge, Raw, and Bull Denim stand out as the premium forms of denim fabric, celebrated for their craftsmanship, texture, and lasting quality.
These fabrics are often produced in smaller quantities, using heritage looms, superior yarns, and specialized dyeing techniques, giving them the richness, depth, and individuality that mass-produced denim can’t replicate
Selvedge Denim
- Woven on shuttle looms with a self-finished edge that resists fraying
- Narrower, slower, and more expensive to produce
- Prized for texture, weaving irregularities, and unique fading
- Often made with premium yarns and dyes; some hand-dyed in small batches
- Strongly associated with Japanese denim fabric, with brands like Evisu reviving global demand for Japanese designer denim
- Available today as Japanese denim by the yard for sewists and small-batch fashion brands
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While not inherently stronger, selvedge is valued for its character and craftsmanship. Many mills use premium yarns and dyes, with some producing small-batch denim dyed by hand. This dedication is why Japanese denim fabric has become world-famous.
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Selvedge denim is woven on shuttle looms, producing a narrow fabric with a clean, self-finished edge that resists fraying. It’s slower and more expensive to make than standard denim, but prized for its texture, subtle irregularities, and the way it fades over time.
While not inherently stronger, selvedge is valued for its character and craftsmanship. Many mills use premium yarns and dyes, with some producing small-batch denim dyed by hand. This dedication is why Japanese denim fabric has become world-famous.
In fact, Japanese mills in Okayama revived selvedge traditions in the late 20th century, with brands like Evisu bringing Japanese designer denim back to international attention. Today, sewists and brands can even source Japanese denim by the yard for small projects or limited collections, keeping this premium tradition accessible.
Raw (Untreated) Denim
- Unwashed and untreated after weaving; stiff, and crisp at first
- Was the standard until the 1960s when pre-washing became popular
- Fades uniquely with wear, molding to the wearer’s body over time
- Loved by denim purists for the “personalized aging” process
- Can be high-maintenance as dye will bleed or run in early washes
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Because denim yarns are dyed using surface-level indigo, the color gradually shifts with washing and friction. This means raw denim molds to your body, softens with wear, and develops a unique faded look that reflects your lifestyle.
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Raw denim is unwashed and untreated after weaving. Until the 1960s, almost all jeans were sold this way stiff, dark, and crispy, waiting for the wearer to break them in.
Because denim yarns are dyed using surface-level indigo, the color gradually shifts with washing and friction. This means raw denim molds to your body, softens with wear, and develops a unique faded look that reflects your lifestyle.
Some denim lovers enjoy this personal journey, wearing raw denim for months before its first wash. Others prefer the comfort and style of pre-washed or garment-finished denim, which provides the same lived-in look without the long break-in period.
Bull Denim
- Heavy and stury denim
- Woven with undyed yarns, then piece-dyed for vibrant, uniform colors
- Usually a 3×1 twill, chunkier and tougher than standard denim
- Known for being hard-wearing — ideal for jackets, pants, bags, and upholstery
- Differs from standard indigo denim (which is yarn-dyed and mottled)
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Structurally, bull denim is usually woven in a 3×1 twill, making the ribs chunkier and the fabric tougher than a typical 2×1 denim. It’s known for being hard-wearing, heavyweight, and 100% cotton.
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Traditional denim for jeans is typically yarn-dyed with indigo, giving it a mottled appearance. By contrast, bull denim is woven with undyed yarns and then dyed as a finished fabric, resulting in a more uniform, saturated color.
Structurally, bull denim is usually woven in a 3×1 twill, making the ribs chunkier and the fabric tougher than a typical 2×1 denim. It’s known for being hard-wearing, heavyweight, and 100% cotton.
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Bull denim is a heavy, sturdy type of denim that’s piece-dyed after weaving, which allows for vibrant solid colors beyond the classic indigo blue.
Traditional denim for jeans is typically yarn-dyed with indigo, giving it a mottled appearance. By contrast, bull denim is woven with undyed yarns and then dyed as a finished fabric, resulting in a more uniform, saturated color.
Structurally, bull denim is usually woven in a 3×1 twill, making the ribs chunkier and the fabric tougher than a typical 2×1 denim. It’s known for being hard-wearing, heavyweight, and 100% cotton.
While bull denim is ideal for jackets, pants, and bags, other types of denim — from lightweight cotton denim fabric to stretch blends — provide variety for different uses. Together, they show how “denim” is not just one fabric, but an umbrella term for a wide family of textiles.
4 Key Characteristics of Denim Fabric
- Durable: The twill weave makes denim strong and long-lasting.
- Versatile: Works for jeans, jackets, skirts, bags, upholstery, and more.
- Aging beautifully: Many denims, especially raw denim, develop a unique fade with wear.
- Available in weights: From lightweight cotton denim for shirts to heavyweight denim for jeans and outerwear.
How Is Denim Fabric Made?
- Cotton yarn spinning – Denim is primarily a cotton fabric, though sometimes blended with other fibers.
- Indigo dyeing – Warp yarns are dyed with indigo while the weft yarns usually stay white.
- Twill weaving – Woven on looms in a diagonal pattern.
- Finishing – Denim can be washed, printed, piece-dyed, blended, or left raw depending on the desired effect.
6 Clothing & Garment Uses of Denim Fabric
Credit: Naked and Famous
-
Heritage Jean 👖
Selvedge denim is the go-to for classic, high-end jeans with a focus on craftsmanship. Its clean self-edge finish and strong weave make it ideal for tailored, structured silhouettes that age beautifully with wear. -
Raw Denim Jeans & Jackets 🧥
Raw denim is prized by denim purists for its ability to develop unique fades and creases. Used in slim-fit jeans, trucker jackets, and workwear styles that tell a personal story over time. -
Colored Denim Pants & Skirts 🎨
Bull denim takes dye exceptionally well, making it perfect for solid-colored pants, skirts, and outerwear. The heavier weight gives garments structure and drape, while the even color adds a polished look. -
Premium Workwear & Utility Styles 🧵
All three types — especially bull and raw denim are popular in utility-style jackets, overshirts, and chore coats, valued for their durability and clean finish. -
Designer & Limited-Edition Collections ✂️
Selvedge and Japanese denim are often featured in designer collaborations and capsule collections, thanks to their reputation for quality and authentic character. -
Bags, Accessories & Upholstery 👜
Bull denim’s dense weave and deep dye make it ideal for bags, aprons, home décor, and upholstery projects, adding a premium handmade feel
Credit: XLarge
How to Care for Selvedge, Raw & Bull Denim Fabric
Premium denim ages best with gentle care. Follow these quick tips to keep your Selvedge, Raw, and Bull Denim looking their best:
- Wash sparingly – Especially for raw and selvedge denim, wash only when needed to preserve color and natural fades.
- Use cold water – Always wash in cold water with mild detergent to prevent shrinking or color loss.
- Wash separately – Raw denim can bleed; wash it alone the first few times.
- Turn inside out – Protects surface color and reduces friction in selvedge and bull denim.
- Air dry only – Avoid dryers; hang or lay flat to keep the shape and finish.
- Light iron if needed – Use medium heat and steam, especially for bull denim’s dyed surface.
Handled with care, these premium denims develop more character, comfort, and beauty with every wear.
What Types of Premium Denim Does Yardblox Offer?
At Yardblox, our denim collection is curated for both sewists and fashion brands, with options that balance quality, heritage, and accessibility. Here’s what you’ll find:
- Japanese Denim by the Yard – premium selvedge and raw denim known for craftsmanship and authentic indigo fading.
- Designer Deadstock Denim by the Yard – rare rolls sourced from global fashion houses like Levi’s, Balenciaga, and Evisu, as well as high-quality mills such as Turkish Orta. Perfect for limited runs and sustainable collections.
- In-Stock Denim Fabrics by the Yard – reliable basics available year-round, from lightweight cotton denim fabric to heavyweight denim fabric for jeans, jackets, and workwear.
- Selvedge Denim – shuttle-loom woven with a self-edge finish, prized for character and craftsmanship.
- Raw Denim – untreated, unwashed denim that develops unique fades with wear.
- Bull Denim – heavyweight piece-dyed denim with vibrant, uniform colors beyond classic indigo.
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