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What is Liquid Ammonia Mercerized Fabric: How It’s Made, Clothing Uses, and Buying Guide

What is Liquid Ammonia Mercerized Fabric: How It’s Made, Clothing Uses, and Buying Guide

If you’ve ever felt a cotton fabric that’s smooth, silky, and glossy, chances are it was mercerized. Most people know about traditional mercerized cotton (finished with caustic soda), but fewer are familiar with liquid ammonia mercerized fabrica gentler, eco-friendly process that creates incredibly soft yet durable fabrics.

beige liquid ammonia mercerized fabric closeup.

From everyday basics like pajamas and t-shirts to professional wear and even high-end shirting, ammonia mercerized fabrics are gaining attention as a sustainable upgrade to standard cotton.  In this article, we will explore what actually is liquid ammonia mercerization, why it's good and how it is an eco-friendly alternative.


What is Mercerized Fabric?

Mercerization is a finishing treatment for cotton that changes how the fibers behave. The process makes cotton:

  • Stronger
  • More lustrous (shinier or glossier)
  • Better at holding dye (so colors stay richer)

Traditionally, this is done with caustic soda (sodium hydroxide). But there’s a more modern, eco-conscious method: liquid ammonia mercerization.


What is Liquid Ammonia Mercerized Fabric?

As people increasingly value high-quality natural fiber fabrics, liquid ammonia finishing has emerged as an advanced textile treatment. Originally developed in Norway and later patented in the US, this technology spread in the 1960s–90s and was initially limited to countries like the US and Japan. Today, Japan leads in global use, with major companies like Nisshinbo operating multiple production lines.

Benefits of Ammonia Mercerized Fabric

  • Strength & Durability: Fabrics gain higher breaking strength, elongation, and wrinkle recovery.
  • Appearance: Fibers become rounder, smoother, and shinier.
  • Comfort: Fabrics feel soft, elastic, and cool to the touch, improving wear comfort.
  • Wrinkle & Shrink Resistance: Garments resist creases and shrinkage, and even linen loses its scratchy feel.
  • Washing Performance: Fabrics don’t stiffen after washing; instead, they get softer over time.
  • Eco-Friendly: Ammonia is a weak alkali that doesn’t damage fibers, leaves no harmful residues, and is almost completely recyclable (95%+).

How is Liquid Ammonia Mercerized Fabric Made?

The most common method is called the Veramtex Process:

  1. Cotton fabric is run through liquid ammonia while held under tension.
  2. The liquid ammonia penetrates deep into the fibers, changing their structure without harsh damage.
  3. The ammonia is then evaporated or rinsed out.
  4. All the ammonia is recovered, purified, and reused making the process nearly waste-free.
Inforgraphic showing how liquid ammonia mercerized fabric is made

Why Buy Liquid Ammonia Mercerized fabrics?

  • Gentler on fibers → less breakage, longer-lasting garments.
  • Eco-friendly → nearly 100% of ammonia is recycled, and it uses far less water.
  • Better feel → fabrics are soft, silky, and stay that way even after many washes.
  • Higher performance → improved elasticity, wrinkle resistance, and reduced shrinkage.
  • Beautiful finish → creates a subtle satin-like gloss (not as shiny as caustic soda mercerization).

Comparison: Cotton vs Mercerized Cotton vs Ammonia Mercerized Cotton

Feature Regular Cotton Mercerized Cotton (Caustic Soda) Ammonia Mercerized Cotton
Strength Standard durability Stronger than cotton Strongest, less fiber damage
Feel Natural rougher surface Smooth & Soft Silky, soft, smooth touch
Luster/Appearance Matte look High sheen, glossy Satin-like glow, subtle
Dye Uptake Good Excellent (rich colors) Excellent + even coverage
Shrinkage Prone to shrinkage Reduced Minimal shrinkage
Eco-friendliness Natural, untreated Uses chemicals, heavy water use Nearly closed-loop, less water
Comparison to show the fiber changes through microscope before and after liquid ammonia mercerization fabric

Applications in Clothing

Ammonia mercerized fabrics are used in garments where comfort, softness, and durability are key. Examples include:

  • Pajamas & Loungewear – Stays soft, breathable, and smooth even after many washes, making it perfect for everyday comfort. 
  • Shirts & Blouses – Offers a subtle glow and wrinkle resistance, ideal for office or smart-casual wear. 
  • T-Shirts – Adds a premium touch with better drape, deeper colors, and a silky feel compared to regular cotton tees. 
  • Sweatshirts & Knitwear – The process improves elasticity and reduces twisting, helping sweatshirts keep their shape longer. 
  • Underwear & Base Layers – Naturally soft and absorbent, but more durable than untreated cotton, offering a comfortable alternative to polyester blends.

Liquid Ammonia vs Caustic Soda Mercerization

Feature Caustic Soda Mercerization (Standard) Liquid Ammonia Mercerization
Process Strong caustic soda bath under tension Liquid ammonia under tension
Fiber Impact Strong alkali, can damage fibers Gentle, fibers stay intact
Finish Shiny, bright gloss Softer, satin-like finish
Hand Feel Soft and polished Softer, smoother, more natural
Durability Good, but risk of brittleness Excellent, long-lasting
Eco Impact High water use, waste chemicals Ammonia recycled, less water use

Buying Guide: What to Look For

When shopping for ammonia mercerized fabrics:

  • Check the weight (lightweight for shirts and pajamas, heavier for outerwear).
  • Look for blends (linen and cotton blends perform especially well with ammonia mercerization).
  • Confirm the label—if it only says mercerized cotton, it usually means caustic soda, not ammonia.
  • Request swatches if possible to compare the feel—ammonia mercerized cotton feels noticeably smoother.

Conclusion

Liquid ammonia mercerized fabric is:

  • Eco-friendly (closed-loop, recyclable).
  • High performance (softer, stronger, wrinkle-resistant).
  • Comfort-oriented (breathable, silky, long-lasting).

If you’re sourcing fabrics for garments like pajamas, loungewear, shirting, underwear or T-shirts, sweatshirts then this is a premium option that combines sustainability with performance.

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