If you’ve ever felt a cotton fabric that’s smooth, silky, and glossy, chances are it was mercerized. Most people know about traditional mercerized cotton (finished with caustic soda), but fewer are familiar with liquid ammonia mercerized fabric, a gentler, eco-friendly process that creates incredibly soft yet durable fabrics.
From everyday basics like pajamas and t-shirts to professional wear and even high-end shirting, ammonia mercerized fabrics are gaining attention as a sustainable upgrade to standard cotton. In this article, we will explore what actually is liquid ammonia mercerization, why it's good and how it is an eco-friendly alternative.
What is Mercerized Fabric?
Mercerization is a finishing treatment for cotton that changes how the fibers behave. The process makes cotton:
- Stronger
- More lustrous (shinier or glossier)
- Better at holding dye (so colors stay richer)
Traditionally, this is done with caustic soda (sodium hydroxide). But there’s a more modern, eco-conscious method: liquid ammonia mercerization.
What is Liquid Ammonia Mercerized Fabric?
As people increasingly value high-quality natural fiber fabrics, liquid ammonia finishing has emerged as an advanced textile treatment. Originally developed in Norway and later patented in the US, this technology spread in the 1960s–90s and was initially limited to countries like the US and Japan. Today, Japan leads in global use, with major companies like Nisshinbo operating multiple production lines.
Benefits of Ammonia Mercerized Fabric
- Strength & Durability: Fabrics gain higher breaking strength, elongation, and wrinkle recovery.
- Appearance: Fibers become rounder, smoother, and shinier.
- Comfort: Fabrics feel soft, elastic, and cool to the touch, improving wear comfort.
- Wrinkle & Shrink Resistance: Garments resist creases and shrinkage, and even linen loses its scratchy feel.
- Washing Performance: Fabrics don’t stiffen after washing; instead, they get softer over time.
- Eco-Friendly: Ammonia is a weak alkali that doesn’t damage fibers, leaves no harmful residues, and is almost completely recyclable (95%+).
How is Liquid Ammonia Mercerized Fabric Made?
The most common method is called the Veramtex Process:
- Cotton fabric is run through liquid ammonia while held under tension.
- The liquid ammonia penetrates deep into the fibers, changing their structure without harsh damage.
- The ammonia is then evaporated or rinsed out.
- All the ammonia is recovered, purified, and reused making the process nearly waste-free.
Why Buy Liquid Ammonia Mercerized fabrics?
- Gentler on fibers → less breakage, longer-lasting garments.
- Eco-friendly → nearly 100% of ammonia is recycled, and it uses far less water.
- Better feel → fabrics are soft, silky, and stay that way even after many washes.
- Higher performance → improved elasticity, wrinkle resistance, and reduced shrinkage.
- Beautiful finish → creates a subtle satin-like gloss (not as shiny as caustic soda mercerization).
Comparison: Cotton vs Mercerized Cotton vs Ammonia Mercerized Cotton
| Feature | Regular Cotton | Mercerized Cotton (Caustic Soda) | Ammonia Mercerized Cotton |
| Strength | Standard durability | Stronger than cotton | Strongest, less fiber damage |
| Feel | Natural rougher surface | Smooth & Soft | Silky, soft, smooth touch |
| Luster/Appearance | Matte look | High sheen, glossy | Satin-like glow, subtle |
| Dye Uptake | Good | Excellent (rich colors) | Excellent + even coverage |
| Shrinkage | Prone to shrinkage | Reduced | Minimal shrinkage |
| Eco-friendliness | Natural, untreated | Uses chemicals, heavy water use | Nearly closed-loop, less water |
Applications in Clothing
Ammonia mercerized fabrics are used in garments where comfort, softness, and durability are key. Examples include:
- Pajamas & Loungewear – Stays soft, breathable, and smooth even after many washes, making it perfect for everyday comfort.
- Shirts & Blouses – Offers a subtle glow and wrinkle resistance, ideal for office or smart-casual wear.
- T-Shirts – Adds a premium touch with better drape, deeper colors, and a silky feel compared to regular cotton tees.
- Sweatshirts & Knitwear – The process improves elasticity and reduces twisting, helping sweatshirts keep their shape longer.
- Underwear & Base Layers – Naturally soft and absorbent, but more durable than untreated cotton, offering a comfortable alternative to polyester blends.
Liquid Ammonia vs Caustic Soda Mercerization
| Feature | Caustic Soda Mercerization (Standard) | Liquid Ammonia Mercerization |
| Process | Strong caustic soda bath under tension | Liquid ammonia under tension |
| Fiber Impact | Strong alkali, can damage fibers | Gentle, fibers stay intact |
| Finish | Shiny, bright gloss | Softer, satin-like finish |
| Hand Feel | Soft and polished | Softer, smoother, more natural |
| Durability | Good, but risk of brittleness | Excellent, long-lasting |
| Eco Impact | High water use, waste chemicals | Ammonia recycled, less water use |
Buying Guide: What to Look For
When shopping for ammonia mercerized fabrics:
- Check the weight (lightweight for shirts and pajamas, heavier for outerwear).
- Look for blends (linen and cotton blends perform especially well with ammonia mercerization).
- Confirm the label—if it only says mercerized cotton, it usually means caustic soda, not ammonia.
- Request swatches if possible to compare the feel—ammonia mercerized cotton feels noticeably smoother.
Conclusion
Liquid ammonia mercerized fabric is:
- Eco-friendly (closed-loop, recyclable).
- High performance (softer, stronger, wrinkle-resistant).
- Comfort-oriented (breathable, silky, long-lasting).
If you’re sourcing fabrics for garments like pajamas, loungewear, shirting, underwear or T-shirts, sweatshirts then this is a premium option that combines sustainability with performance.